← All Subaru BRZ tS trimsSubaru BRZ tS
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Subaru BRZ tS
BRZ tS
STI-tuned BRZ — Hitachi dampers, Brembo brakes, manual only.
Top Speed
140mph
0–60 mph
6s
Horsepower
228hp
Price
$36K
Research links
00 / History
The story of this car
Researching Subaru BRZ tS BRZ tS…
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01 / This trim
What makes this trim its own car
Position in the lineup
Sole trim
- 228 hp from a 2.4l fa24 na flat-four
- RWD with a 6-speed manual only
- 2,862 lb curb weight — every spec on this page applies to this single configuration.
Ideal buyer
Who this trim is for
Buyers who want the model's character without committing to the flagship's running costs. You get the same chassis, the same brand experience, and a payment that won't keep you up at night.
Probably not for
Anyone whose use case clearly favours another trim — if you're never going to chase the 0–60 number or the top speed, the cheaper trim makes more financial sense.
vs other trims
Delta sheet
Only trim on offer — nothing to compare against.
02 / Mechanical
What's inside this trim
M.01
Engine / Powerplant
2.4L FA24 NA flat-four
M.02
Peak Horsepower
228 hp
M.03
Drivetrain
RWD
M.04
Transmission
6-speed manual only
M.05
Curb Weight
2,862 lbs
M.06
Power-to-Weight
0.080 hp/lb · 13 lb per hp
M.07
Powertrain
2.4L Flat-4
M.08
Drivetrain
RWD
M.09
Curb weight
2,843 lbs
03 / Features
What you actually get
Safety & driver assistance
- Forward-collision warning
- Automatic emergency braking
- Lane-departure warning
- Adaptive cruise control
- Blind-spot monitoring
Performance hardware
- Performance brake package
- Launch control
- Adaptive / magnetorheological dampers
- Electronic limited-slip differential
- Multiple drive modes (Comfort / Sport / Track)
Cabin & technology
- Digital instrument cluster
- Sport upholstery
- Wireless Apple CarPlay & Android Auto
- Bluetooth + smartphone integration
- Premium audio system
- Heated and cooled seats
04 / Maintenance
Keep it running for the long haul
Sports cars like the BRZ tS reward fresh fluids and proper warm-up discipline. Treat the engine, transmission and brakes to OEM-spec service intervals and the car will outlast its electronics.
Break-in (first 1,000–1,500 mi)
Most powertrain damage happens here. Do these right and the car will outlive its electronics.
- First 600 mi: keep RPM below 5,000 and avoid full-throttle pulls. Vary RPM constantly — no cruise control.
- Avoid highway-speed cruise for >30 min stretches; varied load helps the rings seat properly.
- Do NOT change the factory-fill oil before 1,500 mi unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise — the oil contains break-in additives.
- At 1,000–1,500 mi, perform the first oil change to remove metal break-in particles from ring/bearing seating.
- Heat-cycle the brakes: 8–10 moderate stops from 60→10 mph in succession to bed the pads, then let them cool fully before any hard stop.
- Drive at varied speeds for the first 200 mi — constant cruising glazes piston rings.
- First 1,000 mi (manual): no clutch dumps, no race shifts — let the throw-out bearing seat.
| Interval | Task | Why it matters | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weekly | Cold tire pressure check | Set to door-jamb spec when tires are cold. Underinflation kills sidewalls and fuel/range economy; overinflation reduces grip. | High |
| Weekly | Visual walk-around | Check for fluid spots on the ground, tire condition, light operation, and any new noises before driving off. | Recommended |
| Monthly | Fluid level audit | Open the hood: check engine oil (where dipstick exists), coolant overflow level, brake fluid, washer fluid, power steering (if hydraulic). | High |
| Monthly | Wash + interior vacuum | Salt, road tar and bird droppings etch paint and clearcoat. Use pH-neutral car shampoo, two-bucket method. | Recommended |
| Every 6 months | Wax / ceramic top-up | Paint protection prevents oxidation. Spray-on ceramic boosters extend a base coat for 6–9 months. | Recommended |
| Every 12 months | Wiper blades + washer fluid | Replace both blades; switch to winter blades + de-icer fluid in cold climates. | Recommended |
| Every 12 months | 12V auxiliary battery test | Load-test the 12V battery — even EVs have one, and a weak 12V causes the most no-starts on modern cars. | High |
| Every 24 months | Brake fluid moisture test | Test with a refractometer or strips. >2% water content = flush. Hygroscopic fluid corrodes ABS modulators. | Critical |
| Every 24 months | Alignment check | Even a curb hit can throw alignment off. Mis-alignment burns through $1k+ tire sets quickly. | High |
| Every 5,000 mi / 6 months | Full-synthetic oil + filter (track-rated) | High-output engines shear oil quickly. Use the OEM-specified viscosity (typically 0W-40 or 5W-40 for Subaru) and an OEM filter. | Critical |
| After every track day | Oil + filter change | Sustained high RPM accelerates oil oxidation. Change within 500 mi of a track day regardless of life remaining. | Critical |
| Every 30,000–60,000 mi | Coolant level + condition check | Use only the OEM-spec coolant (manufacturer-spec long-life). Mixing coolant types causes gelling and water-pump failure. | High |
| Every 60,000 mi | Coolant flush + refill | Long-life ≠ lifetime. Old coolant turns acidic and eats aluminum heads. | High |
| Every 15,000 mi | Engine air filter + cabin filter | Restricted intake hurts power and economy. Replace cabin filter sooner in pollen-heavy or urban areas. | Recommended |
| Every 60,000–100,000 mi | Iridium / platinum spark plugs | Modern long-life plugs; replace as a complete set with anti-seize. | High |
| Every 100,000 mi | Timing chain / belt service | Most modern engines use chains (inspect tensioner & guides); some Audi 2.0/3.0 TDI/TFSI use a belt that MUST be replaced on schedule — failure destroys the engine. | Critical |
| Every 12 months | Brake pad/rotor visual + caliper slide service | Lubricate caliper slide pins with high-temp grease. Replace pads at 3 mm; rotors at minimum thickness or when scored. | Critical |
| Every 24 months / 30,000 mi | Brake fluid flush (DOT 4 or higher) | Performance use: consider DOT 4 LV or a racing fluid (Castrol SRF, Motul RBF600) with dry boiling point >300 °C. | Critical |
| Every 30,000 mi | Suspension bushing + ball-joint inspection | Check control-arm bushings, sway-bar end links, tie-rod ends and ball joints for play. Worn bushings cause clunks and uneven tire wear. | High |
| Every 50,000 mi | Power steering fluid (if hydraulic) | Electric racks are sealed-for-life. Hydraulic systems need a fluid flush to prevent pump whine. | Recommended |
| Every 60,000 mi | Manual gearbox oil change | Use exactly the spec'd GL-4 / MTL fluid (e.g. Honda MTF-III, Ford XT-M5-QS, BMW MTF LT-2). Wrong fluid causes notchy synchros. | High |
| Every 60,000 mi | Clutch wear inspection | Measure pedal travel and bite point. Hydraulic systems need fluid flushes with the brake system. | High |
| Every 50,000 mi | Rear differential oil | RWD diffs run hot — fresh GL-5 75W-90 prevents whine and pinion bearing failure. | High |
| Every 12 months | Wheel alignment + corner-weight check | Performance cars are alignment-sensitive; even a curb-strike puts toe out of spec. Corner-weighting matters for track use. | High |
| Every 30,000 mi | Boxer engine head-gasket + valve cover inspection | Older EJ-series leaked head gaskets; FA/FB still seep oil at valve covers. Inspect during oil services. | High |
| Before storage (>30 days) | Fuel stabilizer + battery tender + tire pressure +5 psi | Add Sta-Bil to a full tank, hook a smart tender to the 12V (and Level-1 charge any EV/PHEV), inflate tires +5 psi to prevent flat-spotting, leave windows cracked. | High |
| Coming out of storage | Pre-flight inspection | Check tire pressures, brake function (rotors will be surface-rusted — bed gently), fluid levels, and rodent damage in the engine bay and cabin air intake. | High |
Service milestones
What to expect at each major service stop.
1,000–1,500 mi
- First oil + filter (break-in)
- Re-torque wheels
- TCM relearn (auto/DCT)
- Multipoint inspection
15,000 mi
- Oil + filter
- Tire rotation
- Engine + cabin air filter
- Brake pad measurement
30,000 mi
- Manual gearbox oil
- Brake fluid flush
- Spark plugs (turbo)
- Rear diff oil
- Suspension inspection
60,000 mi
- Coolant flush
- Brake pads + rotors (likely)
- PCV / valve-cover gasket
- Walnut-blast intake (DI turbo)
- Power steering fluid (if hydraulic)
100,000 mi
- Timing belt (if equipped) + water pump
- Spark plugs (NA)
- Transmission rebuild check
- Motor mounts inspection
- All accessory belts
150,000+ mi
- Suspension overhaul
- Fuel injector clean / replace
- Catalytic converter health (O2 sensors)
- AC condenser + compressor service
Fluid specs
Use only OEM-approved fluids. Wrong fluid = catastrophic gearbox / engine damage.
| Fluid | Spec / Approved Type | Capacity |
|---|---|---|
| Engine oil | 0W-40 full-synthetic | ~5–7 qt |
| Coolant | OEM long-life HOAT/OAT — do not mix types | ~2.5–3.5 gal |
| Brake fluid | DOT 4 LV or racing fluid (Castrol SRF / Motul RBF600), dry boil >300 °C | — |
| Manual gearbox | OEM GL-4 75W-90 | ~2 qt |
Longevity tips
- Warm the engine fully (oil at 180°F+) before any spirited driving — cold metal under load wears 10× faster.
- Run 93+ octane (98 RON) only. Detonation on lower octane permanently damages high-compression engines.
- After hard driving (track, mountain pass, autobahn pulls), idle 30–60 s before shutdown so turbos cool and oil temps stabilize.
- Store on a battery tender if driven less than once a week — modern ECUs draw heavy parasitic loads.
- Address small issues immediately (squeaks, warning lights, fluid spots) — they compound into $5k+ repairs.
- Keep a written service log — both for your own tracking and resale value (Carfax-style records add 5–10% at sale).
- Use OEM-spec parts and fluids — aftermarket 'equivalents' often aren't, and brand-engineered specs exist for real reasons.
- Replace tires as a complete set (or at minimum same axle) and never mix tire models on an AWD car — damages the center diff.
Brand-specific notes
- Subaru CVT and head-gasket issues are well-documented; extended powertrain warranty is worth it.
- Always cross-reference your VIN with the latest OEM TSBs and recalls — manufacturers fix common issues silently under warranty.
- Use the manufacturer app or a third-party scan tool (BimmerLink, OBDeleven, Techstream, Forscan) to monitor adaptations and clear codes between services.
Sources
- Manufacturer owner's manuals (recommended service intervals)
- Manufacturer Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and recall data
- Consumer Reports — Vehicle Reliability & Maintenance
- Edmunds True Cost to Own — Maintenance Schedules
- NHTSA — vehicle safety + recall data
- FuelEconomy.gov — official MPG and ownership data
- Forum repair databases (BimmerForums, Rennlist, MBWorld, MyTurboDiesel, GT-R Life, etc.)
Always cross-check with your owner's manual — manufacturer intervals and TSBs supersede generic guidance.
05 / Configurator
Build your own
Starting from
BRZ tS
$36K
Your build
Subaru BRZ tS BRZ tS
Base$36K
Total$36K